We slept really well and our breakfast was superb, no self service buffet here, all served at your table, including orange juice, yoghurt, croissants, pain aux chocolate, baguette, home made jams and a large bowl of coffee. It makes you wonder why we bother to leave the house really. However, we did leave eventually and headed to Sainte Eulalie de Cernon. To do so, we crossed the Millau Viaduct, always an awe inspiring sight, even though it costs you €8.60 to do so and if you get in the wrong lane at the peage (as I did) you have to get out of the car and pay by credit card.

We’d visited this village three years ago and remembered it’s Templar Commanderie, which we thought was worth another visit. It was grey and overcast when we pulled into the car park and low cloud hung across the valley. The village had a deserted, eerie feel, as if the inhabitants had been struck down by a 21st century outbreak of the bubonic plague. Sadly, I’d left my antiseptic and medical mask at home, so we had to trust the abscence of people was due to it being Sunday not the impending apocalypse.

There was a a human in the tour office who helpfully informed us that we could look round the commanderie for free today (well we had to make some money back on the viaduct tolls) and we set off up several flights of stone and wooden steps on our self guided tour.

Though small it’s a fascinating building to tour round. I must confess to finding such things a tad ‘dry’ though this is well laid out and for the most part well lit. I can only imagine what it was like to inhabit during the chilly winter months.

There were still no villagers around when we completed our tour and we decided to return to the car rather than outstay our welcome and be burnt at the stake as outsiders. Retracing our route and again emptying our bank balance to cross the viaduct we returned to the B&B.

Our intended restaurant for tonight turned out to be closed. However, we were advised by Adeline (the owner here) to try the Auberge De Peyreleau, just within a foodies easy waddle from the closed restaurant. She kindly made us reservations and it was much better than our first impression. It’s not fancy but the service is warm and friendly, the food well cooked, flavoured and wholesome and very reasonable. We may well return, obviously if we don’t develop plague in the meantime.