From our balcony here in Mutriku, we have a commanding view of the harbour and most of the town. Whilst taking the air this morning I spied the above swimmer gliding up and down the jetties, not searching for the boat he left last night but taking some serious exercise, though why he wasn’t using the tide filled swimming pool a little further along is a bit of a mystery. After breakfast, Susie watched some streamed Sky News in our room. Well actually in the bathroom with the laptop perched on the loo, it’s the only place we can get a reliable hotel wifi signal….

Today we planned a trip to Guernica, the site of a devastating air raid by the Luftwaffe in 1937, during the Spanish Civil War. The town needed rebuilding after the war, though most of what remains pre 1937 is both significant and moving. We intended to see the Oak of Guernica, which with the Biscayan Assembly survived the three hour bombing raid. There is also a ceramic reproduction of Picasso’s ‘Guernica’ quite near to the assembly. Considering it’s past the town is very pleasant to walk round and we were able to visit where we wanted in quite a short time.

An unexpected exhibit was the reproduction of an air raid in one of the old shelters. After a short video, you can hear the wail of the air raid sirens, followed by the deafening explosions, the interior lights flickered on and off, the all clear sounded and all that remained was the sound of a child crying. It was both moving and terrifying.

Before we left, we’d booked lunch at a restaurant which turned out to be more like a canteen with waitress service. On the whole it was pleasant food and we were speedily served. A large group of sixth formers arrived and were seated at long tables. It turned out that they were on a school exchange from Germany. Susie caught up with one of the girls in the loo and it turned out that she hadn’t been taught about the bombing. Not surprising perhaps when you consider the German military didn’t acknowlege their involvement until 1997. The Spanish military has yet to respond in a similar way…

Tomorrow we move on to Onati and a hotel which is located in a square tower which dates from the late 18th century……Lets hope it’s wifi isn’t from the same era…