Synagogues, then sinful overeating..

We had a lazy morning as our Jewish quarter tour wasn’t booked to begin till after lunch. The market in the street outside operates all week, though luckily we hear hardly anything of the setting up etc. There’s been a market in this street, ‘Havelska’ since the late 13th century…I bet they didn’t sell overpriced ‘Astronomical Clock’ fridge magnets in those days…

We met our tourist guide Martina at 2pm. She proved to be very knowledgable and took us round what was the Jewish ghetto and the synagogues within it. I got to wear my first yarmulke. It was made from thick paper and almost impossible to keep on your head. Some of the synagogues have been turned into museums and with Martina’s help we were able to piece together a timeline of Jewish history in Prague. We finished at the cemetery some three and a half hours later, tired and a little dismayed by the traces of oppression we had seen and discussed. Two weary people thanked Martina and trudged back to the apartment.

There was little time to get ready for our meal at Field, a Michelin starred restaurant. A stroll across Old Town Square, which was now populated by rowdy groups of hen and stag parties. Why men about to get married feel the need to dress in pink tutu’s and tights will be forever a mystery. A walk down a couple of streets and we arrived at a very smart, welcoming restaurant with agricultural implements mounted on the wall and projected slides of vegetable drawings on the ceiling..


I discovered a wheelbarrow decorating the gents loo later ( don’t worry it wasn’t part of the plumbing). We went for a tasting menu and the food was outstanding. Instead of wine pairing, we opted for fruit juices prepared to complement each course. Oh boy, did they work.. Theatrics featured too, this course of lamb, mushroom, pine and blackcurrant being served on a cloud of liquid nitrogen…


The waiters were very friendly and willing to chat too, which for us makes it more of an event than just a meal. We were the last ones out of the place and were genuinely sorry to be leaving. We staggered across the square, weaving between men in tutus and wobbly girls, oh the curse of cheap flights and even cheaper beer.

Tomorrow we are due to go on a tour of Terezin but I’m not sure we can summon up the energy to go. We’ll see….


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